i63164 |
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Object Description
Type | Physical Object |
Basic ID | Ensemble, 1948. Wool, plastic. Christian Dior, Paris. Gift of Mrs. William Englehaupt (Dorothy Fuller). 1961.382a-b |
Title | Ensemble: jacket and skirt |
Artists/Makers | Dior, Christian (designer) |
Place of Origin | Paris (France) |
Date | 1948 |
Physical Description | Ensemble of dark gray wool. Jacket (a) has pronounced pointed yoke that becomes a hood in back. Back closure of gray plastic buttons. When belted, bottom hem of jacket flares out in front. Long voluminous sleeves gathered at cuffs. Pencil skirt (b), pleated at waistline, with center front button closure and side slash pockets. |
Materials/Techniques |
wool (hair material) plastic (organic material) |
Marks | Made in France; Christian Dior/Paris/04020; Veste-Chevrier-A.M.C.-Marschall Field; 12865 Veste-Chevrier; 28 shop/Marshall Field & Company |
Object History | Worn by donor, Mrs. William Englehaupt (Dorothy Fuller). Dorothy Fuller's name is synonymous with Chicago fashion; she has worked in the industry for more than fifty years. During the Dior era, Fuller was assistant fashion director of Marshall Field & Co. She also started her own business, Dorothy Fuller Productions, which grew into the largest fashion consulting and show production company in the United States. Fuller is also known for her service as president of Chicago's Apparel Industry Board. |
Curatorial Statement | Christian Dior named this suit "Chevrier" which he translated as "shepherdess." The raw, loose-weave fabric, often referred to as "country-wool" and the draped collar show inspiration from a shepherd's tunic. Dorothy Fuller remembers the jacket as somewhat difficult to wear: It had to be pulled over the head and then fastened with buttons down the center back. The inside of the jacket reveals an extra handwritten label directly beneath the designer label. Although misspelled, the label states that the piece was made especially for "Marshall Field" and bears the title of the ensemble With this information, we know that Field's purchased this dress directly from Paris to promote Dior's new designs at its State Street location. Dorothy Fuller later purchased Chevrier at an end-of-season sale for fifty dollars. |
Classification | costume (mode of fashion) |
Categories |
clothing main garments |
Object Types |
ensembles (costume) jackets (garments) skirts (garments) |
Related Persons | Fuller, Dorothy |
Credit Line | Gift of Mrs. William Englehaupt |
Owner | Chicago Historical Society |
Copyright Notice | © Chicago Historical Society, published on or before 2017, all rights reserved. |
Exhibition History | Dior : The New Look. Chicago History Museum (2006/09/30 - 2007/05/27) |
Object Number | 1961.382a-b |
Image File Name | ICHi-63161; ICHi-63162; ICHi-63163; ICHi-63164 |
Language | English |
Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
Collection Name | Museum Collection |
Research Inquiry | http://libguides.chicagohistory.org/research |
Licensing Inquiry | Visit https://images.chicagohistory.org or email rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org |
Description
Title | i63164 |
Copyright Notice | © Chicago Historical Society, published on or before 2017, all rights reserved. |
Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
Collection Name | Museum Collection |