i64569 |
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Object Description
| Basic ID | Evening dress, Tree, 1957. Silk taffeta. Charles James, New York. Gift of Mrs. William Cameron. CC.1973.59 |
| Artists/Makers | James, Charles, 1906-1978 (designer) |
| Title | Tree |
| Other Title | Dress |
| Place of Origin | New York (N.Y.) |
| Date | 1957 |
| Description | Dress of light pink silk taffeta. Sweetheart bodice with thin straps. Fabric is shirred horizontally, with the shirring creating slight V-shapes from the bust to knee area. The bodice and upper hips are fitted, with the skirt belling out and away in back. The understructure is composed of cotton, net, synthetic crinoline, and synthetic horsehair, providing a rigid shape. Back zip closures. Multi-chromatic tulle underskirt. Ankle-length, with slight train in back. |
| Materials/Techniques |
silk (fiber) taffeta nylon tulle (meshed textile) cotton (fiber) net (textile) synthetic fiber metal |
| Object History | James created his first Tree gown in 1955; this version followed two years later. He stated that the design used "faille stretched like a ruched membrane over a stiffened shell molded NOT to the figure of the client, but to the shape I wished it were." He created numerous versions of this dress in various colors between 1955 and 1958. Its wearers included Gypsy Rose Lee and Mrs. Cornelia Vanderbilt Whitney. Although the gathered exterior of this dress resembles the bark of a tree, its name allegedly comes from a Mrs. Marietta Tree, one of the clients who ordered it. CT scan images of this garment were taken at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago. |
| Curatorial Statement | Charles James is widely regarded as America's greatest couturier. Known as the "architect of fashion" he created sculptural evening dresses of great complexity. Born in England, he opened a millinery salon in Chicago under the name "Bucheron" before moving to New York to design clothing. |
| Subjects | Cameron, William, Mrs. |
| Object Types |
dresses (garments) evening dresses (garments) |
| Classification | costume (mode of fashion) |
| Categories |
clothing main garments evening dress (concept) |
| Credit Line | Gift of Mrs. William Cameron |
| Owner | Chicago Historical Society |
| Exhibition History | Charles James: Genius Deconstructed. Chicago History Museum (2011/10/22 - 2012/04/16) |
| Object Number | CC.1973.59 |
| Image File Name | i64569.jpg; index.cpd |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
Additional Information
| Basic ID | Evening dress, Tree, 1957. Silk taffeta. Charles James, New York. Gift of Mrs. William Cameron. CC.1973.59 |
| Title | i64569 |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
