i63700 |
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Object Description
| Basic ID | Setting-out ensemble, 1888. Plaid wool. John Redfern, France. Gift of Mrs. Kent Chandler, 1987.471.1a-b |
| Artists/Makers |
Redfern, John, 1853-1929 (designer) Redfern Ladies' Tailor (manufacturer) |
| Title | Ensemble: overcoat with detachable cape |
| Place of Origin | Paris (France) |
| Date | 1888 |
| Description | Coat (a) of plaid wool. High standing fold-over collar. Long sleeves. Double-breasted with five sets of buttons. Pleated back. Ankle-length. Cape (b) of self-fabric; elbow-length. Fastens to coat with buttons under collar. |
| Materials/Techniques | wool (hair) |
| Marks | Redfern Ladies' Tailor/210 Fifth Avenue/1132 Broadway/New York/Newport, R.I./By special appointments to Redfern ladies' tailor/H.M. the Queen/H.I.M. Empress of Russia/H.R.H. Princess of Wales/H.M. Queen of Denmark/Cowes, Edinburgh/Paris, London |
| Object History | Worn by Mrs. Henry Nelson Tuttle, née Fannie Farwell (1858-1918). Fannie Farwell's wedding to Henry Tuttle in the winter of 1888 was a grand social affair attended by Chicago's most notable families. Fannie wore this traveling coat as part of her setting-out ensemble when she left on her honeymoon to Philadelphia. |
| Curatorial Statement | Englishman John Redfern is widely credited with establishing the popularity of women's tailored suits. His first business was a ladies' tailor shop, which proved so popular that he soon established couture houses in London and Paris. Nineteenth-century women's traveling clothes -- like this coat -- were often made from sturdy woolen materials and followed the lines of men's wear. Although most brides today do not wear setting-out or going-away ensembles, the trend remained popular well into the late 1960s. Brides spent much attention on how they presented themselves for the first time after becoming a Mrs. This ensemble was often worn on the first day after the wedding, the day most couples went away for their honeymoon. |
| Object Types |
ensembles (costume) overcoats capes (outerwear) |
| Classification | costume (mode of fashion) |
| Categories |
clothing outerwear |
| Credit Line | Gift of Mrs. Kent Chandler |
| Owner | Chicago Historical Society |
| Exhibition History | Chic Chicago : Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum. Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. (2007/10/12 - 2008/01/05); Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum. Chicago History Museum. (2008/09/27 - 2009/07/26) |
| Object Number | 1987.471.1a-b |
| Image File Name | i63699.jpg; index.cpd |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
Additional Information
| Basic ID | Setting-out ensemble, 1888. Plaid wool. John Redfern, France. Gift of Mrs. Kent Chandler, 1987.471.1a-b |
| Title | i63700 |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
