i63456 |
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Object Description
| Basic ID | Evening dress, Butterfly, 1954. Silk chiffon, silk faille, DuPont nylon tulle. Charles James, U.S.A. Worn by donor, Mrs. John V. Farwell III neé Margaret Willing. 1958.74 |
| Artists/Makers |
James, Charles, 1906-1978 (designer) Marshall Field & Company (distributor) |
| Title | Butterfly |
| Other Title | Dress |
| Place of Origin | New York (N.Y.) |
| Date | 1954 |
| Description | Dress, evening-style, of off white silk taffeta, off white silk chiffon, and multicolored Dupont nylon net. Columnar shape, floor-length, with center back zip. Base layer is off white silk taffeta, with tucked silk chiffon on top forming a slight V-shape down the center front. Yellow taffeta panniers arc out from center back, framing a large bustle of multiple, silk net layers in various shades of green, yellow, and orange. |
| Materials/Techniques |
silk (fiber) chiffon taffeta nylon net (textile) |
| Object History | Charles James originally designed the Butterfly ball gown for Mrs. William Randolph Hearst Jr., for the price of $1,250. The sculptural design lives up to a comment once made by Spanish couturier Cristbal Balenciaga, "Charles James is not only the greatest American couturier but the world's best and only dressmaker who has raised it from an applied art form to pure art form." Only five examples of the Butterfly are known to exist. Worn by donor, Mrs. John V. Farwell III neé Margaret Willing. |
| Curatorial Statement | Perhaps one of the most stunning examples of Charles James's work, this dress weighs nearly eighteen pounds. James held the voluminous skirt in place with two structured side wings -- the dress's most notable feature -- made from nylon mesh, plastic boning, and horsehair. The Butterfly's large quantity of nylon tulle prompted DuPont to feature the dress in advertisements throughout the 1950s. |
| Subjects | Farwell, John V. III, Mrs. |
| Object Types |
dresses (garments) evening dresses (garments) |
| Classification | costume (mode of fashion) |
| Categories |
clothing main garments evening dress (concept) |
| Credit Line | Gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III |
| Owner | Chicago Historical Society |
| Exhibition History | Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum. Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. (2007/10/12 - 2008/01/05); Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum. Chicago History Museum. (2008/09/27 - 2009/07/26) |
| Object Number | 1958.74 |
| Image File Name | i63456.jpg |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum. 1601 North Clark Street Chicago, Illinois 60614-6038 |
Additional Information
| Basic ID | Evening dress, Butterfly, 1954. Silk chiffon, silk faille, DuPont nylon tulle. Charles James, U.S.A. Worn by donor, Mrs. John V. Farwell III neé Margaret Willing. 1958.74 |
| Title | i63456 |
| Image File Name | i63456.jpg |
| Rights | All rights reserved. Contact Chicago History Museum, Rights & Reproductions (rightsrepro@chicagohistory.org) for use. |
| Collection Name | Costume and Textile Collection |
| Repository | Chicago History Museum |
